Moving energies...

If all goes according to plan, come 2010 I will be living in another, slightly bigger flat.

Yes! After having recently spent many days cleaning out and optimizing my current living space, a domino effect of needs, desires, constraints and opportunities have produced the impossible. I have found a flat, in the same neighbourhood, which promises to be the place for new beginnings. And hopefully I will have moved by 2010.

"Does the photo represent its walking in closet?" I hear you ask.

Well, no. But my camera continues to be in coma, and I haven't had the time or the patience to try and get it fixed, and so begin adding more of my own photos to this blog (it is on my to do list for 2010 - promise!) So I've chosen a dream version of a walk in closet from my favourite interior decorating magazine, www.livingetc.com. Because the good news is that this new flat does have a very promising area to create a walk in closet where I can store clothes, and many other things so as to keep the living space airy.

So now I am beginning to pack everything in boxes I find near recycling bins or get direct from the supermarkets in my area. Also, I have great friends who have promised to help me find more boxes. Thank you all for being so supportive!!!

I have been daydreaming about moving flats for about 18 months now, so I think this is my reward, and proof that good things to come to those who wait. Its also part of my plan to forge ahead with the things I can control, while doing what I can to affect the things I can't control (that said, if anyone knows of a job opportunity, please let me know! I would love to begin 2010 with a new flat AND a new job!)

So there you have it - my project for December. Changing flats!!!

I pick up the gauntlet

"Challenge yourself to simplify – the sustainable lifestyle is quite inspiring when you take it on as an adventurous quest."

This little nugget was part of my horoscope today. And I couldn't agree more. I am already on this quest. I picked up the gauntlet at some point this year - I can't pin point exactly when it was. Lets just say that its a transformation working from the inside out. And I'm curious to see where it leads me.

Believing the hype

This past couple of months have been stressful and full of uncertainty, I won't deny it. Health issues, work issues... all have coalesced to force a screeching of the breaks. After years of accelerating and moving forward, of pushing the limits (of my body, of my mind, of my time) suddenly I was forced to be still. And wait.

Now as one of my best friends constantly reminds me, patience is not one of my qualities. "Watch the stones grow" has become a long standing joke between us because I have a tendency to jump the gun. I have struggled, have attempted to deal with this daemon over and over again, and repeatedly failed. But I continue to try.

So these weeks of forced non-movement I deep breath, make lists of things I CAN do, and try to not let my mind stray to the dark side. The exercise is having surprising results. Apart from a deep spring cleaning of my flat that has made me prune both my library and my magazine collection (reading through and then chucking articles I've been cutting and accumulating through out my working life in the process) and rediscover hobbies I had long since given up on due to lack of time (more on that on another post, promise) and other similarly easy to grasp benefits, there has been another less obvious, but no doubt more significant transformation.

By stepping out of the hamster wheel I was able to, hopefully temporarily, look at the rat race in a more detached way. And gauge my own conduct, examine my decisions, my actions and their consequences, consider my mistakes (and there have been many), and, most importantly analyse what must change, what can be done, and what I want my priorities to be in the future and act accordingly. Its a process that I visualize as getting rid of static interference. Blocking out the desires and needs of others, giving up on looking at yourself through the eyes of others, be they loved ones or work collegues, and "re-learning" to look straight into yourself, without interferences.

Its scary, but then again anything worth while in life is scary. Its hard work. You have to look face on at your darker side - your weaknesses, vices, insecurities... struggle with them, accept them and see what you can do to reduce their hold on you. Its a struggle, but its very revealing and I trust it will make me a stronger and better person in the future. What I found surprising is to realize just how far I had believed in the hype.

"What hype?" you ask.

Well the one of the fashion industry, the one promoted in fashion magazines, on TV, at every level of society. The hype about how you could reach happiness through consumption.

I had been aware of my ambivalence on this subject ever since my childhood. I knew, I know, consumerism isn't the answer to everything. I know an extra pair of shoes - even if they are gorgeous Christian Louboutins - won't really change your life or transform you into a better /prettier / happier person... neither will the latest mobile phone, car or a backstage pass to meet the latest pop star (if that's what rocks your boat) and yet, somehow, issue after issue writing up how the Louis Vuitton "carry all" was a must, how this winter wouldn't be complete without a gray dress - the new LBD, don't you know -, or the cream that would rid you of aging in one fell swoop, I let the hype permeate my life style. I began to accumulate sky high platforms, slightly twitched versions of jeans, that special edition Tshirt that would show the world my incredible sense of irony... I'd fall in love with things. It was easier and faster than finding someone to fall in love with. It was a quick fix. It was more instantaneous gratification than saving up to go see a new country or friends and family that lived thousands of kilometers away. It kept the blues at bay.

The sated / bloated feeling started coming over me a couple years back. I knew I couldn't really say "I have nothing to wear". I had more than enough. So much so that my wardrobe was taking over my small flat, despite the careful editing with every changing season. Yet still I persisted in going shopping "just to see" or "to invest in some special pieces". Until I ran out of excuses. And so I had to admit: "I am a shopaholic" and accept that I will probably have to be "in recovery" the rest of my life. Which is why I am proud to say I have been" clean" for 5 months now. And really, its not at all bad.

Streetstyle vs. personal style

Ever since I spent my Saturdays strolling through Harajuku with my friends, a crèpe cone in my hand and a roving eye on the stalls, I have enjoyed checking out fashion trends and fads and trying them on for size. Its fun, its funky, its like playing dress up everyday. And that, for a girl who wore a uniform until age 16, is pretty fun.

As anyone who studies streetstyle is quick to tell you, since the beginning of the 20th century young people have defined their identities through what they chose to wear or not. Flappers, zazoos, beboppers, hippies, punks... up until the latest youth culture development: Jerking (http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/11/20/fashion/20091120-jerking-feature/index.html). In all instances the clothes denoted ideals, rebellion and a response to the culture and society of the day. They help young people separate from their parents generation and yet feel part of a group, part of something. The dichotomy of longing to be part of a group and at the same time defining your individuality has been a main stay of the last century. A new social development that partly helps explain the growing amount of extreme individualists in Western cultures.

So, which of these subcultures have influenced my style? Well, obviously grunge was important. That representation of a disconnect between "teen spirit" and the surrounding consumer society was easy to identify with. Not only because I graduated from high school in 1992, but because, after the culture shock of changing continents once and high schools and countries twice in the last couple of years from school I felt completely isolated and angry. And wasn't that what grunge was all about? Plus it was comfortable - long bias cut black dresses, sturdy boots, lots of knit - what better uniform for a college student in London?

What remains of those first years of exploring how I should dress and present myself now that I had no uniform to fall back on? My love of black and gray, of warm knits, flat boots, dresses (but not minis, thank you very much) jeans with everything and a fascination with a certain cool, rock attitude - though that I have never really had (more nerdy than cool - that's me). Still, all this forms the basis of my style, along with a certain tendency to prefer the men's department, though I am no Patti Smith. (Ergo the H&M look above - all elements courtesy of the men's department).

All has been refined with age, as I began to accept both my physical characteristics (ie: I will never be Ms. Kate Moss nor do I need to aspire to that) and my personal evolution. Which is why this is a good moment to stop and review for a while. I have thoroughly enjoyed test driving many more or less wacky trends. Many have become permanent fixtures in my wardrobe. Some have had a short rotation period before moving on to the wardrobes of friends to who's style they were better suited, and still others found a new owner through the good works of Caritas. All ended up finding a good home, and that is something I am proud of.

What I wonder now is: Is the experimentation over? Does there come a time when we no longer need to play with our clothes? To use them to express ourselves?

Anyone got any ideas or insights on this?

Reviving the Arts & Crafts Xmas

Its 10 am and yet its so foggy and gray outside it could be nearing evening. The KIO tours have disappeared and so have, I imagine, the great skyscrapers further up the Castellana. They have been kidnapped by banks of fluffy clouds. Setting the perfect stage for a weekend of staying at home and enjoying a bit of arts & crafts.

First up on the list: bringing out and placing all the Christmas decorations.

Then, once the tone is set and I'm in the spirit, happily humming "Deck the halls..." its time to get serious and start on the hand crafted gifts that will be "de rigeur" this Christmas season. Promise to take some pics. There will be no "Christmas shopping" this year. Only "Christmas making"!

Phase 2 - Mix&Match, make do & mend

Hard to believe it, but its been almost 4 and a half months since I bought a piece of clothing!!! OK, its been that long since I bought a piece of clothing for myself. I HAVE indulged and got some really cute stuff for some of my favourite babies during this time.

But the most amazing thing is that I don't really miss not having "obtained" some of the drool worthy and beautiful things that are out there! Nor do I miss going window shopping. But maybe that's because I have been window shopping on the net - alot! And may I say, the most fun of them all is the H&M web page - as per the whole "dress up the cut out dolls 2009 redux" that they have invented (see results above). (P.S. I have finally figured out how to include more than one photo per post! What can I say? I'm a slow learner...)

Its fun, its creative and I give it extra points for giving me new ideas about how to mix and match what is already in my closet! Also has confirmed that often I am more drawn to men's clothing than to womens... but I guess that is a post unto itself.

I have yet to quantify my closet (will probably end up doing so in the future), but an estimated guess makes me pretty sure that I have enough clothes, in a sufficiently wide variety of sizes, to last me a lifetime. And that's no joke! So I have dared myself to begin a "how long can you go with your present wardrobe" experiment, akin to the one I've done with my pantry. Same goes for the accessories and all the beauty products. And I'm already considering how to update / upgrade / personalize some of these things... Something I've always done but that now seems even more relevant.

Phase 1 - Clean up, clean out and wave "stand by" good bye!

Hello again! No, the earth hasn't gobbled me up although it sometimes feels that way - and I still see the precipice all too close. The thing is I have been busy "practicing before preaching". Recycling on a regular basis, asking for my flat's windows to be upgraded to double glazing... all those things I'd done.

Changing the normal light bulbs? Check.

Replacing hand washing the plates with an eco grade "A" dish washer? Check.

Reducing the use of water? Check.

Filling the washing machine completely? Check.

Using only public transport? Check...

You get the picture.

But during the past couple of months, I have taken advantage of the forced staying at home to clean up and clean out the flat. Its been a much more ardous experience than expected given the reduced space (barely 55 m2). Truth be told, I didn't make it easy on myself. So many magazines, so many cut outs ...and instead of just taking them all out into the paper recycling container I actually read through them before chucking! Now the meter high mountain of cutouts is down to about 5 cm - Yuppy!

But don't think its the only home improvement going on. You know what they say about "stand by"... so I got a wonderful plug that helps me completely switch off the TV, tdt and CD player every night, and when I leave the house or am not using them during the day.

Then there has been the whole "lets see if I can empty my pantry and how long it will take me to do so" experiment. Its lasted from Nov. 1st until today - and the results have been rather surprising and imaginative if I may say so myself. Proving in the process that thrift does help to be creative.

I have been exploring other alleys for my creativity too during this time... but that's another story.

Luxury: trend vs. lifestyle

The fog of the past few weeks seems to be finally lifting from my brain! Yupi! Its been slightly eerie of late - a feeling of brain and body going each their separate ways, and the first loosing control of the second (and no, I am no longer on painkillers so this has nothing to do with meds - just with contractures in neck and shoulders)... Anyway, as always, I digress. So back to the thought, or rather, the subject for debate that has come to the surface: is luxury about trends or about lifestyle?

Today I  would definitely and inequivocably vote for "lifestyle". But I know that there have been times in my life when "luxury" could have been defined as "being able to keep up with the trends posited by the fashion designers and houses that I liked / identified with". Does this mean a new maturity? I never felt the need for "boatloads of money" to enjoy luxury, not really... maybe just a cool million in a currency where that sum buys you a nice house and leaves you with enough small change for other things...

I think there are people for whom luxury - understood in the sense that the "luxury industry" projects of material posessions created with care and aiming to achieve excellence -  is all about being liked / admired / envied /assimilated by and into different social circles. That can happen in a conscious way - emulating the spending habits of those we wish to resemble or in a subconscious way - creating through consumption the alter ego of ourselves that we believe will engraciate us most with those that surround us. That is the most straight forward, basic way - the "nouveau riche" way if you will. And we have all sucumbed in some way or other at some point.

The "luxury as lifestyle" thesis is more subtle, more lasting, and also more personal. Because it does not necessarily have anything to do with what you can buy with a credit card. (Hence the brilliance of the whole Mastercard ad campaign about making spending money all about the experience and not the spending... Personally I like the HSBC "What does luxury mean to you?" campaign much better - it is more sophisticated, more subtle - and if you ask me definitely an inspiration for the other). 

Haven't begun to read "Buyology" yet but I figure this is all part of  Martin Lindstrom's research. I love the fact that his name has been cropping up in articles I have been reading recently. Didn't really know he was so famous a wiz kid but I liked the word game. But then life got in the way and its been sitting on my shelf for ... six months already!  Still, I look forward to reading it now that my mind has defogged. I am always curious about what really pushes us to do what we do, be how we are... pop psychology, serious psychology, spiritual enlightenment, history - anything that helps me shed a light on my character and actions and those of others is welcome. So will let you know how I find the book - I plan to start on it as soon as I finish Pepys's biography. It is thrilling to follow the taylor's son transition from Cromwellian Commonwealth to Charles II's Kingly Spending and his rise to administration glory! Incidentally, he grew into his wealth and revelled in it - but seems to have always remained a "nouveau riche" when it came to the basics... Good night to all!!!

Words to live by

"Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony." - Mahatma Gandhi

Not as easy as it sounds. But definitely worth striving to achieve this.

I am a Shopaholic...

... well, you could of guessed that one. 

Decided to recuperate a personal tradition and check out a couple of DVDs for a Friday afternoon extravaganza of laughs and evasion, liberally salted with popcorn. Boy did I miss watching films without ad interruptions!

I've logged on as the credits of "Confessions of a Shopaholic" scroll up my TV screen. I feel so identified it is ridiculous.  Not with the adorable goofiness of Isla Fisher's character (she is the perfect match for Sasha Baron Cohen - her comic timing is impecable) - but because of how she feels about shopping and all things fashion. Must point out I have never read the novels, partly from a fear of... well, yes, identifying with the main character. And not only because I've wanted to be a fashion journalist since teenhood.

Unlike Becky, I don't live in NY, don't shop at Prada, not even the sales (OK, I own to having two pieces of Balenciaga by Ghesquière picked up over the past 4 years at sales - Prada just doesn't do it for me) or have ever had such a wonderfully colourful wardrobe. Neither have I had the good fortune to come across a Hugh Dancy lookalike, with an equally impeccable accent, who is impressed by my talent as a writer and my lovely character. But I have, for the most part chosen to shop, travel and give gifts over saving, through out my adult life. 

The result is a wardrobe that covers all possible needs and occasions, mostly from high street mainstays like Zara, Mango and Top Shop and mostly in varying shades of black, blue, nude and white and beige - and a bank account that too often dips into the red. Ahhh! There, I admit to it. Yes, I'm a shopaholic!!!!

In remission. I haven't shopped for clothes since July. I have also significantly cut back on beauty buys - except for replacements of basics ofcourse! And magazines. Am even trying to cut back on gifts... The idea of literally freezing the credit card feels oddly appealing at the moment too as a symbolically drastic but not unretractable gesture (the other option: cancelling it and cutting it up makes me break into a sweat). Promise to do all that once my work situation has stablized and I no longer need it for end of the month emergencies. 

Wednesday I browsed through Zara and H&M - hadn't been in since the sales and had a couple of hours "to burn". I am happy to report that not only did I not shop, I didn't even try anything on. Can I be gaining a bit of self control?! Hoping this is one of the good things to come out of the financial and labour crisis for me: that I finally do take charge of my spending habits. 

I've promised myself to avoid shopping for clothes and accessories for myself atleast until 2010. Anyone else made this sort of self-promise lately? Would love to hear your strategies to reach financial equilibrium. All tips welcome.

Flash back - the list

As I continue going through the different areas of my flat, cleaning out and up, I am bringing together books, articles and other things related to this blog. One of these is a list that has been stuck to my fridge for a few years. Its 20 recommendations on how to be "greener". Maybe some of you have seen it? 

Reading through it again, I realize how much of this has become second nature. And also how much I still have not done. Would love to know your thought. So, herewith, a translation of the list:

1. Before buying anything, ask yourself: "do I really need it ?"

2. Don't systematically switch on the hot water. Only use it when it is really neccesary.

3. Before throwing something away ask yourself if it can be recycled or reused.

4. Avoid canned drinks - the cans cost more than the actual drink and barely any are recycled. Make sure you recycle yours.

5. Always opt for machines you can connect to the electric grid to charge rather than those that need batteries. And make sure you take batteries to their specific disposal points.

6. Unplug all electric appliances when you are not using them. That includes your TV, DVD, etc, as they continue to leech electricity when in stand by mode, especially if you use the remote control to put it on stand by.

7. Avoid buying small electric devices that do exactly what you can do with your hands:  can openers, etc. If you need to buy any new appliance (TV, fridge, washing machine...) be sure to check its green credentials: low consumption, recyclable or recycled materials. And take good care of them to keep them efficient and make them last longer. 

8. Whenever possible go for lower voltage and eco friendly bulbs. They may cost more, but they also last alot longer, making it an intelligent long term investment, as they use up to 5 times less energy and last up to 8 times longer than conventional bulbls. Think about that! Fluorescent and halogen lamps also last longer and need less energy.

9. Avoid aerosoles. They contain CFCs, that cause the destruction of the ozone layer, along with many other gases that contribute to the green house effect. 

10. Most cleaning products are highly polluting. Try to use soap, bicarbonate soda, vinager and lemon instead. Between them, they can clean and disinfect almost anything.  Its cheaper too. (But if you still hanker for "remedies in a bottle" there are now some very good green, biodegradable products on offer. And yes, most include these home remedies in their formulations...)

11. House fragrances don't tend to eliminate bad smells, they just add to the mix. Choose carefully for those that do eliminate smells, and add pleasanter smells with natural options such as incense and soya candles.  

12. Your fridge's ideal temperature is between 3 and 5º C. Place it as far away from the oven, stove and heating system as you can. Make sure you always close it well and never leave it open while you come and go.

13. To save water, instal a double charge system in your WC. Opt to shower instead of taking baths and never leave the tap on while you wash your face or your teeth. Same goes for cleaning the dishes. Tap shut!

14. Use both the washing machine and the dishwasher only when they are fully loaded. And try to stick with low temperature programmes. They get the job done and save on energy.

15. Avoid processed food: its got too many additives and preservatives apart from being wrapped in way to much plastic, cardboard and styrofoam. Opt for fresh produce from your region that is season apropriate. 

16.Keep food in tupper ware or recycle glass pots, instead of using aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Remember to cook with the pots covered (less energy used, and gets cooked faster), and keep your pots and pans in proportion with the quantity of food you are making.

17. Do not print out everything. Think before you use paper and recycle, recycle, recycle.  Also buy recycled paper.

18. Do not over heat or over cool your home or your office. Make sure all your spaces are well insulated, keep the thermostat down to 19º C in winter, and 25º C in summer.  You'll avoid colds, save money and limit pollution to boot!

19. If you have medicines in your cabinet that have long passed they're expiry date, take them to your pharmacy to get rid of them responsably. 

20. Avoid all forms of PVC and plastic containers. 

When I get back from rehabilitation Pilates I will let you in on how well I fair in respecting this list. Would love to know what you do or not and if you can recommend any additions to this list.

Ciao for now!

Optical illusion

Perspective is a funny thing. For what feels like weeks, I have been limited to working from my sofa. Today I have "repossessed" my work desk. There's scarcely a meter and a half between both pieces of furniture (what did you expect? This is a small flat ;-) and yet it feels like I am viewing a totally different living space. It helps that the instead of facing my TV I now look up and see my beautiful plants (or "urban jungle" as part of my family has knicknamed my ever expanding interior garden), and, behind them, the recently cleaned up flat buildings across from me. That might sound claustrophobic, but given that there is a school playground in between its actually quite airy.

Anyway, all this to tell you, my friends, that I am very glad to be surging along on the path to full recovery, and with it to actually beginning to post all those thoughts I have jotted down (I am still very much a pen and paper girl) but haven't had the energy or the time to comment with you yet. But before I go off on another tangent, let me just say; Check out Vogue USA's "Salad Days" cover story!! where Sally Singer talks of "her quest for a greener life" with great sense of humour. In it she explains her struggles as an "uberfashionista" trying to turn "uberecological" - which means, basically, that there now officially exists an international movement of fashionistas (Sally Singer and friends) and would be fashionistas (me!) trying to reconciliate the one with the other. It is nice to see that we all stumble along but continue to battle both with our inner weaknesses and commitment averse politicians and industrial tycoons who are forever postponing the green reforms they have promised and signed treaties about. Vital reforms that this planet and ALL its inhabitants, not just humans, need to survive. 

Weekend fun

Recently I have been able to begin ticking off a few things on my "Autumn To Do List". It began with a week long clean out of book shelves and seasonal wardrobe changing (more on that tomorrow). 

This weekend it was time to transplant a few potted plants. The other day, my friend Sam helped me choose and bring home what I like to call an intelligent pot, the kind that regulates the water intake of the plant. Today, I got down and dirty and had lots of fun in the process. Also signed up for a gardening class next Saturday. Think its time to become a bit more serious about this hobby. The more I toy around with the idea of home grown herbs, the more I feel like the idea. When I'm feeling really ambitious I dream of growing tomatoes and other vegetables. Fruits are mostly out of the picture though - the terrace is too small for them.  And then of course there is the work of Patrick Blanc and his amazing vertical gardens, like the one on the wall of the Caixa Forum here in Madrid. His passion for plants, for creating ecosystems that are both sustainable and beautiful, is truelly an inspiration. I love the idea of a city alive with vegetation. 

Arriving in Madrid after London, one of the things I missed the most, and still miss, is the greenery. True, Madrid has the Retiro and the Casa de Campo and thanks to them a very large extension of greenery. But you have to make a point to go to them. There are few squares and smaller parks in the different districts of the capital, unlike London where communal garden squares are quite numerous. I'm not comparing both cities, each has its charm... but I do miss the gardens of London.  Lucky for me then that a few years ago they opened a small garden of the Canal Isabel II just a block away from my house. I often go there for walks and work outs. 

Which is why I hope the example of what New York is doing with the High Line - an original project which combines ecology and beauty that is converting the rails of High Line that is no longer in use into a garden that is both a new lung for the city and a great new open place for citizens to enjoy - will stimulate other cities to create similar projects where nature is brought back into the gray, cement heavy, city centers. Likewise, some of the ideas presented to Sarkozy for his plans to restructure the "greater Paris" region are important meditations on the future of city scapes the world over. In my own small way I wish to contribute to that shift, from cities choked by cement and smoke to ones that breath fresher air thanks to greener streets. 

The cast of "Numb3rs" do some cool hunting...

As I dozed off last night my mind wondered off on a tangent... And I began to dream about Charlie, the mathematical genius in the CBS series "Numb3rs" (in Spain its on La Sexta) putting his mind to create a mathematical system to predict fashion trends. I know, completely crazy, but hey! it was a dream.

The funniest thing was that Charlie was a bit befuddled when he had to talk to "classic" coolhunters. He couldn't understand how such an industry had been built on hunches and odd bits of data that have very little to do with statistics.  And so he set about building a more analytical and exact system, while wondering why an industry that is supposedly so hell bent on individuality, creativity and "being different" is simultaneously so in need of conforming to trends... Unfortunately I did not get to see the end of the episode, because my alarm clock went off, so I can't share with you what his new, improved system for making trend predicitions. But hey, maybe this story line will make it to the screenwriters that actually do work on the series, and they can create an appropriate, mathematically driven, theory.

Shopping instructions

Last week I surfed into www.hm.com. I wanted to check out the Jimmy Choo collection, due out on Nov. 14th. What I found was a video and a set of instructions on how the first day of sale would be. It sounded very civilized, with numbers given out according to how early you arrived. A cross between waiting in line to get front row at a rock concert and going to the butcher. I thought it odd, but considering the hullaballoo at some of the other launches (Viktor & Rolf and Comme des Garçons come to mind) I assumed it was a pretty good call. Just wondered how shopping mad fashionistas would try to get around the system. 

And then today I checked in again to see the images of the full collection. And I understood why all the fuss (namely, not being allowed to buy more than 5 pieces per person, all different, etc, etc...) The collection is ABSOLUTELY DROOL WORTHY!!! The prices are high for H&M - I'd say even higher than COS. And yet I found myself downloading images and the price list of the whole collection. Have to decide which five items I would want to buy... I already have #1 on my list - and no, the bag that illustrates this post is NOT my #1 but if you know me you'll probably guess it - but the other four.... Ofcourse, in all probability, if I do make it in time to get my number in line, get in, and find what I want, I'll only buy #1. But I suspect #1 will be very, very, very in demand this season. 

Plus, isn't all this strategizing half the fun of Recession Era High Street Shopping? Hunting down "just the right" piece, at "just the right" price and being able to then combine it with all that already hangs from my closet. That is the essence of smart shopping today. Getting the pieces that will become the corner stones of your wardrobe over the next few years. The markers of your style. Not some passing fad. 

Say bye bye to Window Shopping and hello to Virtual Window Shopping. It can be  done at any time of day or night from the comfort of your sofa (or office desk - though I don't really recommend it - the guilt kills the fun). And the dent to your credit due to instant gratification extras is minimal. Want a coffee? You get one from the kitchen - no need to pop into Starbucks or Vips. Saves you from getting tempted by that sexy white chocolate cookie and its milk chocolate sister. When you do decide, after much meditation, to buy online, there is the wait, the anticipation and finally, the arrival of the package. And the pleasure of touching, getting a feel for and then trying on that which you imagined. All happens over a space of days, even weeks (online sales demand you develop inner peace and patience). Like in the good old days, but different. All facilitated through the web.

Apart from the obvious pleasures of surfing theoutnet.com, americanapparel.net, privateoutlet.es et al there are the less glamourous but maybe more important perks of internet shopping. Like being able to shop for groceries and 20 kgs of soil without having to limp out of the flat when you have been strictly instructed to stay home by your physician. This process allows you not only to shop but to create lists of favourites, special products, and any other quirks you might consider (party shopping list, first dinner date shopping list, family visit list... you catch my drift.) All this reminds me I should be doing my grocery shopping right now!

Hold this thought...

“Sometimes you feel like you have to be in the fashion world to do good fashion. Today, I think it is the opposite. You have to be local.” Mr. Johansson (ACNE)

Its been over a week since my last post. I promise to catch you up on my musings tomorrow. But tonight I just want to share a very interesting "outsider" point of view from the head of ACNE, a Swedish jeans brand that is much more than just a jeans brand. And not just because they have done a capsule collection with Alber Elbaz! His point of view is particularly interesting at the moment. 

Those in charge in the world of fashion, the designers, the top editors, the "trend setters" do seem to live in a world so far removed from the banality of everyday life that they have lost touch and sight of how even the majority of the First World live. Those towering heels, those cuts only apt for the curveless (both men and women), those delicate fabrics and detailings... yes they are beautiful - but are they practical? 

When you work in fashion it sometimes feels like the concept, nay the very word,  "practical" is dirty. Asking whether its practical (Can you actually put it on alone or do you need help? Can you sit while wearing it? Can you walk in them?) is akin to a direct insult. And yet, I still believe that good design cannot exist unless it is practical. Its a basic rule, as important as ever, whether it be in fashion, in industrial design, architecture or engineering. Creativity and practicality are not opposites. It is when they coexist in one same idea or product that true excellence is reached. The fashion intelligencia does seem to have lost track of that notion. Hopefully they will return to meditating the basics. And if not, well "outsiders" like Mr. Johansson, will.

I LOVE fashion?

I LOVE Fashion!! I really do! I've made a career out of it after all so it must be love with a capital "L" - right?! 

And yet, and yet... as I check all the collections on the net and check out all the great blogs about the people who attend those shows, work in the fashion industry or simply aspire to do either or of those things, I find that I am actually very happy to be sitting in my sofa instead of traipsing around the fashion capitals with what seems like the de rigeur accessory of the season: the impossibly high heels and platforms attached to any form of shoes. (One such example in the picture, this bootie by British designer Nicholas Kirkwood - www.nicholaskirkwood.com. It is beautiful and sculptural but I'm not sure it would survive a walk on a cobblestoned Paris street or the rush hour on any city's tube system). 

Maybe its sensory overload, maybe its the knee talking ("You thinking of wearing those shoes? You crazy woman or what?! No way am I letting you do that kind of damage to me - enough's enough!!!) But the fact is that at this moment I am quite happy to NOT indulge in what is, admittedly, one of my favourite pass times of all time - SHOPPING! And all that I am seeing about this season and the next isn't really changing that feeling. I'd rather look into my closet and make up new combinations with all the pieces I have picked up and kept over the past... oh 17 years. (That kinda gives away my age doesn't it?)

Is this some sort of midlife crisis or just a sign of the times? Not quite sure but I think its basically a combination of both, with a few other factors thrown in for further disorientation. Maybe its just that having worked in several areas of the fashion world the sense of mystery and wonder is gone.  Its not that there aren't amazing ideas and designers out there that make me drool (the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Dries Van Noten or Rick Owens immediately pop to mind) its that I feel that there are alot of others that don't really bring anything to the mix. I'm not quite sure that the whole system of between two to eight collections per designer per year, is very condusive to actually editing your own work and taking the time to create something different or improved. That some manage to do this year in year out is a mark of genius that is often undervalued.

Maybe I just need a sabbatical. To walk away from it all and concentrate on other things... other areas of my life - you know, those that feature in feng shui's bagua; Relationships, Friends, Family, Children / Creativity, Knowledge and Balance and Unity. Maybe I should just clean out my flat to make a fresh start of it and get the chi moving! After all I really think my Career, Fame and Wealth areas could also use a good shacking! And maybe, once I get all this done I can truelly answer the question: Do I LOVE fashion?

The fur debate

To wear or not to wear fur? That is one of the most controversial subjects in the world of fashion. The majority of the fashion houses, from Gucci to Louis Vuitton to Ralph Lauren or the furriers from Fendi to J.Mendel, sprinkle their every collection with leather, pony skin, python, crocodile, mongolian wool, astrakhan, mink...

A minority stick to their vegan guns, like Stella McCartney, and create incredibly high tech and interesting alternatives to both fur and leather, like this winter's beautiful coats, leggings and thigh high boots, proving you can obtain the same look as leather and fur without having to directly slaughter a single animal. (see the image above, courtesy of www.style.com)

But what of the way fake fur is produced? After all, most fake fur is made from plastics, and plastics are mostly derived from petrol. The production of plastics is not exactly the most eco-friendly process either. (If you want the details, check out: www.wasteonline.org.uk/resources/InformationSheets/Plastics.htm) 

My tack is that, unless you have qualms about eating meat, then its a bit weird to get all funny about leather or the skin of any other animal you'd be willing to eat (let me clarify that in my case that includes ostrich, horse - after all I was partly raised in Belgium - I haven't tried snake yet but crocodile has a very similar taste to chicken). So its a personal decision. For me the "no go" species is rabbit. It is extremely soft fur but, just like I can't think of eating its meat, I wouldn't be able to wear its fur.

And yet, I wear fur when it gets very cold. My grandmother's jackets and coats mostly. Keepsakes that I cherish, because of who they belonged to, because of how beautifully made they are, and because they are warm, comfortable and elegant. I'd never buy a modern fur. I don't need it. Today there are modern fibers that are just as effective if when it comes to stopping the ice of a winter morning from getting into your bones. 

But I will continue to use those furs from the 1940s, '50s and '60s. I love them, not only because they keep me warm, but because I feel when I wear them that my grandmother is still somehow with me. And, should I have a chance, I will definitely try to modernize a couple.  Ironically, some of the best ideas I have found for how to do that come from the recently launched "Where the Wild Things Are" fake fur collection at Opening Ceremony (www.openingceremony.us). A great childhood flashback of a selection created by movie director Spike Jones who has turned my generation's classic bed time story into a feature film that will be coming out soon (bets are on as to whether it will ever be released in Spain... watch this space!) 

The joys of natural beauty products

I have long been a fan of Aveda (www.aveda.es). Their ethos and ethics, similar in many ways to that of The Body Shop - one of my all time favourite beauty brands -  sits well with my higher self's aspirations. Ever since it opened its Marylebone High Street store in London, over a decade ago, I have often lusted for, but never actually bought any of, their all natural, eco-conscious, organic and fair trade products. As a beauty editor at a magazine, I had all my beauty needs covered by the steady flow of samples of new products, and rarely needed to go out and actually buy something. 

When they finally landed in Spain, I got very excited with the news. But despite all that, I have never been a client of Aveda's Madrid beauty salon / spa / store. Not until today, that is. I had recommended it many times, given its treatments as presents even, but never actually indulged myself. But, after a brief survey among friends and specialist beauty editors, I decided that, if I was going to take the plunge and "go red" I could trust Aveda's professionals to give me a natural looking hair colour. 

So I called up and then went for a free consultation last week, my Mac in tow, to show them a series of images of other women whose colour and cut I thought could work on me. I was surprised at how quickly the colourist understood what I wanted and started evaluating what would work on me. I have never had my hair coloured, not even highlights. Just the occassional gloss since I turned 30, and felt I should start taking care of myself, over and beyond the "basic everyday routines" of cleaning and hydrating - face, body, and hair. 

This was not a decision taken lightly. I'm the kind of person who chews on decisions until I am totally sure, or until I can no longer take something. And what convinced me about doing it at Aveda was their experience and totally natural dyes.  Must say, they've lived up to expectations!!! It has been just the therapy I needed, to balance out the physical pain I'm in. But that's another story... 

I came away with a beautiful mid-auburn and an XXL shampoo and an XXL conditioner (if you must know, Colour Conserve shampoo and Smooth Infusion conditioner). I was running out of both, perfect timing to renovate products and suit them to my new style. At 1l. each, I hope that I won't be needing to replenish until 2011 atleast! I love that they have no sulfates, because I am hoping this will mean a reduction in my recurring scalp sensitivity. Plus, its nice to know that something that makes me feel so good is also "minimum impact" when it comes to the environment. Its a great bonus!

Redefining fashion for the future

 “It’s about unifying aesthetics with ethics,” said (Italian artist Michelangelo Pistoletto (76). “The mission here is what I call ‘The Third Paradise’ — the unification of technology with nature so that both can coexist in harmony.”

This is an extract from an article I have just read at the NYT:  www.nytimes.com/2009/09/25/fashion/25iht-rcitta.html?ref=fashion

I love the way he synthesises what is needed in fashion, and in industry, even society as a whole, in two simple phrases. The fact that Italian Vogue's Franca Sozzani was part of this initiative means the fashion industry will stand up and listen. And that's good. Every little helps.

And this goes for Ms. Casiraghi and friends' "EVERManifesto", who have created an editorial project around the notion of sustainability. Kudos to them for using their mass appeal to draw attention to one of the greatest threats to our planet - our current way of life. I'd love to get a copy of that first issue and read it all up.  The whole idea of sustainability is so fraught and overwhelming, because it covers such a wide scope of issues: changing social perceptions and mores, redifining our needs and obligations while reevaluing the industrial tissue that has revolutionized everyday life since the 19th century... A tall order that we will only be able to live up to if we all work together, both in our private endeavours and in more public ones like these. 

Yes, he can!

Ok, I know politics, ecology and fashion can rarely be mentioned in the same sentence. So for this post I will concentrate exclusively on the first two. Listening to President Obama's address to the UN makes me believe that, yes, indeed, he can!

Here is the extract from the NYT coverage of the General Assembly that leads me to have hope (www.nytimes.com/2009/09/24/world/24prexy.html?_r=1&th&emc=th): 

"“We have re-engaged the United Nations,” Mr. Obama said, to cheers from world leaders and delegates in the cavernous hall. “We have paid our bills” — a direct reference to the former administration’s practice of withholding some payment due the world body while it pressed for changes there."

May I add that it wasn't just the Bush Jr. administration that held this policy? Reagan and Bush Sr.'s did too. I found that out way back in 1991 when I went to Model United Nations. The USA is supposedly the greatest contributor to the UN since its creation after WWII. But there have been long periods in which they have withheld that funding or delayed specific payments. A way to control decisions made by the UN? To dictate policy? To avoid being sanctioned by the Security Council? I leave you to reach your own conclusions...

So maybe President Obama will keep his promises, and maybe this drive to work together with other nations and entities and go beyond the short term interests of the USA will result in a new approach to all things. Maybe we can hope to hear news that the US finally decides to join the International Court of Justice ... or to sign and live up to the urgently needed treaties regarding conservation and ecological policy too... Paying up to the United Nations is definitely a good start!

Check out his full speech - available in video or written format:  http://www.un.org/ga/64/generaldebate/US.shtml

Emma Watson's tree

So you've probably heard the news! Emma Watson is quitting her acting career to go to Brown University and live "a normal life". The girl we have come to love as Hermione in the Harry Potter movies is taking time off from filming to go to college, model for Burberry Prorsum... AND help create a trendy line of ecoconscious clothing for teens with People Tree (www.peopletreeyouth.co.uk) due to hit stores in February 2010.

The news spread like wildfire throught the web this week after the company presented the collection during London Fashion Week. Alot has been said of celebrities-turned-designers, not all good. But I think that, as long as the line is well thought out, like, say, Victoria Beckham's - why not? 

Plus, you have to appreciate the earnestness of Miss Watson's words on the project: "I wanted to help People Tree produce a younger range because I was excited by the idea of using fashion as a tool to alleviate poverty and knew it was something I could help make a difference with. It has been the most incredible gap year project." Its bound to be the kind of feel good shopping were in lies the future of fashion. 26 pieces that are both ecological and fair trade, not to mention cute! Now, how much more can you ask for? (well, shipping to anywhere in Europe would be nice.)

Bottles to backpacks

Have you ever felt bad about buying a plastic water bottle? I know I have. One of the greatest things about living in Madrid is the high quality of the tap water we get from the nearby mountains, courtesy of the Canal Isabel II. So I normally get water from the tap, whether it be at home or at the office. When I need to take it with me, I've got a great Sigg aluminium thermos (you've probably heard of them, but just in case: www.sigg.com). 

The problem arises when I have to travel by plane. What with the new restrictions with liquids going through customs, they practically force you to consume bottled water - and at exorbitant prices too! 

So imagine the relief I felt when I heard about a Spanish company that actually converts all those plastic bottles into on trend luggage and bags. Ecoalf 1.0 is the name of the project created by Fun & Basics owner Javier Goyeneche. 

The idea is pretty basic, and the technology behind it pretty niffty. These bags are made of a pvc free fabric made from plastic bottles! 100% recycled and recyclable. It takes 70 PET bottles to create 1 square meter of ecoalf fabric.  And the designs aren't half bad either, thanks to their practical side. You have specific pockets for all your electronic gadgets. Perfect to resist the wear and tear of daily urban life or intercontinetal travel.  (www.funbasics.com/ecoalf.htm)

'Tis the season to recycle...

Yes, recycling! That byword of all things ecofriendly can also be the secret to the perfect wardrobe.  In a season like that of A/W 2009-10, where the '80's, the '70's, the '40's and the '90's all coalesce it is easy to "make do" with what we already have in our closets. Think about it: 

Leggings? Check

LBD? Check

Leather biker jacket? Check

Booties? Check

Skinny black trousers (jeans or otherwise)? Check

Trench coat? Check

Oversize sweater? Check

Basic T-shirt? Check

Boyfriend blazer? Check

Pencil Skirt? Check

Flat knee high boots? Check

11 items that conform the perfect winter 2009 wardrobe and that you probably already possess.  Isn't that a neat trick?! All you have to do is place them in a place of prominence in your wardrobe and check through the rest of your clothes to see what you have that works well with them. But that whole "organize your closet and work it" chapter is best left for another day.

The autumn equinox - time for a wardrobe overhaul!

Its that time of year again. 12 hour days followed by 12 hour nights, temperatures start to drop, the air changes, the leaves fire up. And every woman I know begins to look at her wardrobe with varying degrees of dissatisfaction. 

How to face the challenge of dressing over the next few months and bare the cold with style? Suddenly that prize coat from a couple of years back looks terribly wrong, and the collection of over 20 sweaters is simply not quite right... so what to do? The obvious answer until 2007 was "GO SHOPPING!" But today, that just doesn't feel right. Whether or not you can actually afford to shop is not the question. Shopping has become an act fraught with moral significance. Especially when it comes to shopping for clothes and accessories. 

Lets face it, most of us in the first world have more clothes than we actually have occasion to wear. Especially women. How many dresses do you have in your closets that you have barely worn more than once at a wedding or party? How many pairs of heels so high you wore them once but shiver at the very thought of wearing them again? I know I have more than my fair share. 

This time around I have decided to avoid temptation altogether; no window shopping what so ever! So far the experiment is working. Its almost the end of September and I have not bought a single "new season" item. But then again so far its been easy, what with all the street works going on in Madrid, window shopping has become a dangerous sport! And speaking of dangerous sport, having a bad knee also makes it much easier to avoid walking into any boutique, because it hurts!

Recycling is the key to this season.