29/4/10

Living the frugalista life


Funny how, once you get started on the road of "less is more" it gradually gets not only easier, but more fun to challenge yourself to go further. Suddenly, all that surrounds you and that you have taken for granted all your life takes on a new dimension. Things you felt you couldn't live without become so superfluous that you send them straight to the recycling bin or give them away. Other things, things you had ignored, suddenly grab your attention because of the creative potential they have. You learn to be selective, to think long term.

Also, you learn to make the most of the things you decide to keep. Discovering new functions for them. Lateral thinking becomes a big part of your everyday thoughts. "How can I make the most of this? I no longer need this for X but maybe it could work with Y?" And slowly you realize that you are reducing the amount of what I can only call "static" in your life. Certain aspects of your life, of your personality even, come back into focus. Its something akin to meditation, just that in my case I still need to keep my hands busy while doing it.

Having to think ahead, even designing projects which you can not set them up just yet fill you with hope, is great mental exercise. I am experimenting more with my receipts, even as I am consciously spending less on food. Similarly I am finding ways to keep busy and productive within the confines of my home. One of the best of these self appointed projects, that has given me focus, calm and entertainment through out the worst of this long and frustrating winter has been sewing up "ragmonsters" (see scanned examples above) from old clothes. I've made them for all my nephews and nieces, as Xmas gifts, and really enjoyed the process. What was most surprising though was the response: the kids loved them, and some adults even petitioned for one to call their own!!! I don't dedicate as much time to them now as I did around Xmas, but its become a great way of keeping busy on a lazy evening. Also a great way of giving a new lease of life to clothes that no longer serve their purpose because they are too threadbare to be handed over to charities.

Its a times like this that you begin to understand why some architects and designers say that you become more creative when the boundaries you work with in are very limited. And I, for one, savour the challenge.


23/4/10

Organic cotton - just the beginning?



Ever since I started learning about the way cotton is grown and the difference between "normal" and organic cotton, I have paid closer attention to labels. Its not like I didn't read them before. Always have, because quite honestly, my skin is a bit choosy. It likes all natural materials, tolerates Lycra and Modal, but when nylon comes into contact with it, it tends to react violently: it itches and turns red.

Still, I started paying even more attention. Have you noticed how in most big distribution labels organic cotton tends to be used exclusively for T-shirts? Anyway, T-shirts have definitely been my "way in" to eco fashion. First ones: a couple from the Product (RED) and GAP, bought the last time I was in San Francisco, years ago. They have worn in very nicely... The label above belongs to my latest buy. Found it the other day as I was cleaning out my desk. Organic cotton seems to have become ubiquitous, which should be a good thing... except... reading up on the subject, going to lectures and talking to experts I learned that even if organic cotton is better than normal cotton, it still demands wasting lots of water. So its far from being sustainable.

Not to mention the dyes, although by now most companies do the follow through and organic cotton products are then dyed with the most innocous dyes available. (And yes, in case you were wondering, that is why there tends to be a particular type of colouring that defines eco-fashion. The brighter the colour, the more likely its highly contaminating - you have been warned!)

Anyway, back to the cotton. So now there is wide spread debate in the eco textile/fashion community about whether materials derived from milk protein, bamboo, hemp or other natural sources aren't actually more sustainable, and therefore more truelly ecological than organic cotton. Over the last few years, the textile industry has been focusing on developing new "artificial and yet natural" materials - the most famous or atleast buzz worthy being Cupro - made out of tree celulose and totally recyclable.

As with everything else that has to do with being sustainable, ecoaware, etc... learning to make the right decisions when shopping for clothing is a "learn as you go" process. Which is probably why there is an increasing focus among the ecoaware to encourage second hand and vintage fashion - since the most sustainable of all options is to use all that has already been produced until it falls to shreds. This idea, enhanced through the lense of recession, is at the core of all the brands that now openly recycle their own products or use vintage finds to create new clothing - just like back in the day when our grandmothers would discuss cutting up a dress to make a skirt, or giving a much loved shirt a second lease of life by changing the collar and maybe the sleeves, too...

The whole notion of going back to the future again.

Making the most of things

This is the pencil I've been using lately for the notes I take as I read up for the articles I write for magazines. Why, you must wonder, have I sharpened it both ways? Well, because it fell to the floor, broke and turned into a dangerous stake. Sharpening that part off seemed the only way to be able to continue using it without hurting myself in the process.

Maybe a few years, even a few weeks ago I would just have chucked it when it broke. But in an interview with Jean-Louis Dumas that I read and loved, I was especially struck by the way he answered one particular question: What is your favourite everyday object?

His answer?

Something along the lines of: The pencil, because by the time you finish using it, it has helped you do so much, create so much. Its one of the best investments you can make.
(Sorry for paraphrasing, but I seem to have misplaced or inadvertently chucked the article into the waste paper basket. Otherwise, I'd have tagged it so you could enjoy this man's lucid ideas on what luxury is - and isn't - and how its not about the money. )

I've always loved pencils, but after reflecting on that notion of his, I've gained a new respect for them. Thought I'd like to share his perspective with you, too.

22/4/10

Things aren't always what they seem...


The other day, researching my article for "Fuera de Serie" about Established & Sons I came across this beautiful object / image. It was love at first sight and I saved it immediately. But only after did I realize that this lamp cum sculpture by Stuart Haygarth is actually made from recycled glass lenses. How cool is that?!

So I'm printing it out and adding it to my inspiration board as a reminder that, with imagination and vision, even the most banal elements / ingredients can be turned into something magical.

HAPPY EARTH DAY!!!

On the 40th anniversary of Earth Day I wish to walk you down my private memory lane of the event. Back to my time at Seishin in Tokyo. I think it was 1989, because my friend Louisa wasn't there but already back in HK. And at school there was a huge buzz. The whole school was converging on the gym for a rare treat. A lecture on the urgency of becoming environmentally active to save the Amazon. Rumours zig zaged through the classes like lighting - Sting is coming!!! Sting will be telling us about the importance of saving our planets biggest rainforest from deforestation, cattle grazing and other dangers lurching in the dark!!!!

Never had the gym witnessed so much excitement. This was hysteria akin to Beatles' first Madison Square concert. What was happening? Why were we running late? Suddenly someone was approaching the dias, surrounded by Mr. Tootle, Mr. Woods and many other of our teachers... It was the chief of an amazonian tribe, in ceremonial dress. There was a long hush. Where was Sting? Where was his travel fellow? And a whispering cloud on the stage. Suddenly one of the teachers asked Sandra Y, Desirée and me to get up on the stage: we'd have to translate for the chief. I am so sorry I can't remember his name.

He began to explain the situation of his tribe, his habitat. We tried our best to translate it all. As the story unfolded, we all stopped thinking about Sting's no show. This man and what he was telling us had us riveted. His message, his cry for help left us breathless, and indignant as only teenagers can be, about the world's injustices and the cupidity of polititians and businessmen.

Looking back, I realize most of my teachers back then were probably eco activists at a time when that was not so normal. Their concern for the future of our planet permeated much of what they taught us, much of what we learned. I was already convinced back then that I didn't want to have a car. I didn't want to contribute to the destruction and monopoly of the oil and automotive industry, because I didn't / don't / can't in all honesty believe that the social model they have encouraged is good or beneficial for us as a society, or as a species, and I believe it is destructive for all the other species and biodiversity on this earth.

I've been raised Catholic but I do not believe humankind really is as entitled as we seem to generally think we are, often citing Genesis. I believe we are the biggest danger to this earth. In many ways we are the worst "pests" if you will, because we have such capacity for destruction. We have potential, but our lack of respect for all the other species we coexist with and for nature ruins that potential. And if we are not careful this will be our downfall.

Does my believing these things, and trying to live in a way that is consequent with these beliefs, however imperfect, make me a "Taliban", as I have often been told? I don't know about that. What I do know is that, the more I learn about interconnectivity, science, biology, sociology, climatology, etc... the more sure I am that WE, not tornados, not tsunamis, not earthquakes, volcanoes or a meteor falling out of the sky are the biggest danger to the Earth's survival. Which is why I have to do all I can to raise awareness and change my ways, our ways. There's no excuse and no time to do any less.

21/4/10

Back to the future...




As you can tell, today I feel chatty and inspired. One of the weird things about working in fashion is how you are constantly oscilating between the now and the future. The fashion shows, presentations... all that has been happening over the last few weeks is like having a peek into the future. What we will see on the streets and inside magazines six months from now.

Considering I have no idea what I will be doing tomorrow, next week, let alone sixth months from now, it seems ironic to think that I know exactly how I want to dress for whatever it is. Namely these easy, breezy jeans & t-shirt combos from the future / present (see how this can play around with your sense of time?) collaboration between Marni and Current Elliott. Lets just hope I'll remember to look them up once they actually make it into the shops so I can atleast try them on!!!

Stretching time / stretching products...


Working in fashion and beauty journalism tends to mean you rarely need to go to the drug store to buy a new lip gloss or a new face cream. You tend to get to keep enough samples, even after generous distribution among collegues, family and friends, to not have to worry about upgrading your beauty routine on your own. Which is why, even now, I have a wonderful collection of perfumes, lipsticks, nail polishes (I'm becoming aware that this triumverate is my beauty weakness) and even body creams or foot scrubs. I've always been particular about face creams, so that I have often replaced on my own.

Still, over the last few months I have made a conscious effort to reduce the amount of stuff on my bathroom shelves by finishing off products. Many of these I need not replace. What is really curious is that, as with time stretching out when you are bored, I am discovering that products with as little as 5 ml to their name, can last ... close to forever!!!

Take my Matt Mousse make up from Maybelline for example. It has been my go to this year to protect my face physically from the polen that causes my skin to break out on contact. I've been putting it on every morning, religiously, since February and I still have enough product, I calculate, for atleast a whole other month - and its a tiny 18 ml pot!!

Similarly I have been using lipgloss like never before. Conscientiously reapplying it several times a day, not only to bump up my self esteem by showing a polished face to the world, but to try and finish off a few that have less than half left... have you ever attempted to finish off a lipgloss? Its like that stuff self regenerates at night - you just can't get rid of it! But, being the obstinate woman that I am, I have vowed I WILL manage to finish atleast a couple by the end of Spring. Can't let a humble lip gloss have the best of me.

Nailpolishes are similarly unweildy at just 7 ml on average, but somehow, I am not as obsessed about them - maybe because doing my own mani - pedi is a weekly "obligation" I actually find very relaxing and creative (try Rouge noire with a sparkly gold overcoat - it completely changes a look!)

The collection of pots of vaseline I have distributed among my hand bags, and in all the rooms of my home are an easier objective. Because they are so multifunctional I have managed to finish off a couple of them and can see myself implementing a "one pot only" policy in the near future. Same goes with the collection of travel size soaps I have accumulated as mementos of stay overs in some of the world's best hotels for work (a nod to the knowledge I'd never be able to return on my salary!) Those I am dealing with easily. So watch this space for I will be letting you know when I claim victory over my lipgloss collection!

20/4/10

Finding old things new homes...


This morning it seems like spring has finally arrived in Madrid. Hurray! I have watched a beautiful sun rise from my bed as I checked my emails and mentally prepared for what looks set to be a busy day. Its time to enjoy all the new life and energy that longer days and blooming nature brings.

And speaking of new life, a BIG part of my life over the last few months has been about cleaning out my flat and finding old things new homes. And its interesting to stop and analyze what that work has involved and how it developed.

The first stage was relatively straightforward, aswell as probably the most boring and even painful: sifting through the paper trail of my adult life: 17 years of bills, taxes, and bank accounts that had to be cut into small pieces (at one point I seriously considered a shredder as a desirable AND highly necessary product - thank goodness I couldn't move!) It all was then sent off to be recycled into more paper that I hope will lead a more exciting life as a novel. It was also a way of making peace with my past.

The volume of magazines I chucked was even more impressive - dozens of kilos of paper that had been accumulating dust on the off chance I might need to look back at something, sometime. Still, it was a struggle to let go and I reached a compromise: sifting through every page and cutting out things to add to my scrapbooks. Thus there were two versions of recycling at work at this stage: creative and physical. Taking them down to the recycling bin took many trips over many days. But the result was surprising: suddenly my living room felt much "lighter" from having cleared all the top shelf of my built in bookshelves.

Next came my books - a careful selection of airport bought best sellers that I'd never reread was carefully packed into my shopping cart and handed over to a second hand book seller on the "cuesta de los libros" in exchange for enough to enjoy a breakfast at Starbucks. Still, the best part was thinking those books would continue to entertain others.

By this time, spring was nearing so I began Spring cleaning, which meant going through clothes, shoes... this is a piece of maintenance work that I have been efficient in doing on a regular basis, so it was straight forward because I have a well developed method. And this time around, with no new arrivals to accomodate, it was a relatively painfree and fast experience. The result was barely a bag full of fashion experiments bought as such during past sale seasons made their way to the charity box in my neighbourhood where I regularly deposit the cast offs I know no one else around me will want.

Surprisingly it was much more difficult to figure out how to make sure my cast off ring binders got a good second life. I ended up taking a friend's advice and placing them atop the paper reycling bin the first day the rain stopped. Spent the following hours checking regularly from my terrace if they were still there. By noon, someone had picked them up to give them a new home. Was very happy it took so little time.

A pair of domestic electrical appliances that no longer work and a hand held vaccum cleaner I haven't used in years are more tricky, and I have yet to find them a new home or take them to a "clean spot" where they'll know how to make good use of the parts.

But my last stage of this project is a pair of jeans. They're from a limited series, very exclusive, but never worn because I never fit into the sample size. Still, they might be of value to some jean connaisseur so I have dediced to put them on sale in eBay. Just curious to see how it works and what they might offer for them. Its a pity I took the paper labels off... still they are supposedly pretty rare so that might liven up the bidding. Will let you know how that goes when I get around to it, because of course the first thing I have to do is photograph the thing!!! Meanwhile, here's a scanned detail of the print... See why I need to find a camera? ;-)

7/4/10

The digital divide

It began as an occasional twinge... "I'd love to get an iphone - so much "gadget-liciousness" in the palm of my hand is sure to feel delicious!" Then it became a more particular sense of mourning... "if I had an iphone I could even take pictures and download them easily - for my blog, for painting inspirations..." And today, the final step in the process - panic at not being connected enough!!!: "If I had an iphone I could send an email to this person who's mobile phone I don't have on mine, and who I was supposed to meet 20 min. ago - has she texted me to cancel thinking I have a blackberry?!"

Such is the way in 21st century life and socializing. What begins as a cool gadget for the eternally busy is so quickly absorbed into the mainstream that within a question of months you feel like a complete looser if you are not in on it too. Still, I will try to stick to my experiment of - how long can you go without an iphone (and this is only partly due to the fact that I still don't have enough points to get it for free). I rebel against that sense of emergency that now permeates all of society.

The "twitterification" of our attention span, time management capacity, social skills is accelerating at warp speed. There are more adult instances of ADD than ever before in history.

Having a blackberry or an iphone does not mean you are free to think everyone should be at the other end hanging on your every word, your every desire as if you were the center of the universe. The technology of instant connection / gratification is turning our society into a society of narcissists of the worst kind. These instruments should allow us to be more flexible, they should not enslave us to others, be they high-handed clients, needy friends or greedy gossips! There are very few things which are truelly urgent in life.

So get a grip people!!

Try disconnecting for a couple of hours and read a book. Something by Alexander McCall Smith will help your heart rate simmer down, your brain relax and your soul remember that life is more beautiful when you stop to enjoy spring's lovely blooms. Feels good, doesn't it?