Organic cotton - just the beginning?

Ever since I started learning about the way cotton is grown and the difference between "normal" and organic cotton, I have paid closer attention to labels. Its not like I didn't read them before. Always have, because quite honestly, my skin is a bit choosy. It likes all natural materials, tolerates Lycra and Modal, but when nylon comes into contact with it, it tends to react violently: it itches and turns red.

Still, I started paying even more attention. Have you noticed how in most big distribution labels organic cotton tends to be used exclusively for T-shirts? Anyway, T-shirts have definitely been my "way in" to eco fashion. First ones: a couple from the Product (RED) and GAP, bought the last time I was in San Francisco, years ago. They have worn in very nicely... The label above belongs to my latest buy. Found it the other day as I was cleaning out my desk. Organic cotton seems to have become ubiquitous, which should be a good thing... except... reading up on the subject, going to lectures and talking to experts I learned that even if organic cotton is better than normal cotton, it still demands wasting lots of water. So its far from being sustainable.

Not to mention the dyes, although by now most companies do the follow through and organic cotton products are then dyed with the most innocous dyes available. (And yes, in case you were wondering, that is why there tends to be a particular type of colouring that defines eco-fashion. The brighter the colour, the more likely its highly contaminating - you have been warned!)

Anyway, back to the cotton. So now there is wide spread debate in the eco textile/fashion community about whether materials derived from milk protein, bamboo, hemp or other natural sources aren't actually more sustainable, and therefore more truelly ecological than organic cotton. Over the last few years, the textile industry has been focusing on developing new "artificial and yet natural" materials - the most famous or atleast buzz worthy being Cupro - made out of tree celulose and totally recyclable.

As with everything else that has to do with being sustainable, ecoaware, etc... learning to make the right decisions when shopping for clothing is a "learn as you go" process. Which is probably why there is an increasing focus among the ecoaware to encourage second hand and vintage fashion - since the most sustainable of all options is to use all that has already been produced until it falls to shreds. This idea, enhanced through the lense of recession, is at the core of all the brands that now openly recycle their own products or use vintage finds to create new clothing - just like back in the day when our grandmothers would discuss cutting up a dress to make a skirt, or giving a much loved shirt a second lease of life by changing the collar and maybe the sleeves, too...

The whole notion of going back to the future again.